Scandalous “model” Brooklyn LeMieux (far left) with DJ Aladdin and new mother Oomlaut (far right) after ONIIGRRIN’s RTW F/W 2013 “The Morning After”
Highlights from ORNIGIN’s menswear. Says designer O.J. Edwards “I was watching alot of Columbo”
ORIGINI’s RTW F/W 2013 “The Morning After”
IOEGIRN RTW FALL 2013
by Leah Hennessey
Half dressed girls and boys stumbled down the runway in garish neon shrugs and metallic bathing trunks, scribbled on denim and carelessly draped various flannels of astounding variety. IGORINI (pronounced “Tom”) Designers O.J. Edwards and Margiela Pastriocci (formerly known as Luby Mccalister) call their shocking collection “The Morning After”. Critics looking for irony in this bold collection will be sorely disappointed, this is fashion at its dirtiest, realest and most revolutionary
The Look: IOGORINI’s walk of shame is dominated by power clashes and absurdities. One particularly stunning look (a truly exquisite Mattel pink velour sweater with furry white trim, a distressed lavender print crop top, lime green hipster hot pants) is paired with one perfectly matching green flip flop and one complementary orange flipper. The men’s collection, notably more understated than the women’s, mostly consists of stained raincoats and asymmetrical yoga pants. Edwards said he was “watching a lot of Columbo” and while we didn’t see too many Peter Falks on the runway, there were one or two John Cassavetes look a likes.
The Message: ONGRINI has always been synonymous with quality and craftsmanship. The pieces in “The Morning After”, individually and in their assemblage, are impressive and distinct. The politics, on the other hand are at the same time muddled and overstated. Aside from the obvious social commentary (feminist? post-feminst? who cares?!), sloppy radicalism literally littered the runway. The woefully miscast celebrity waif “model” Brooklyn LeMieux, sporting classic lens-less Lolita frames and mismatched nautical stripes, carried a contraband oversized soda, with the words “FUCK BLOOMBERG” scrawled on the Styrofoam. Really OENIGRONI ? You want to pick that battle? While many of the models tripped and spun their way down the runway, LeMieux took it too far by throwing her soda into the audience and defying gravity, spinning in the air before falling flat on her face. An eating disorder and a popular blog do not a model make, and hopefully ORNIGI will stick to working with professionals in the future.
The Scene: While much of the elegance of “The Morning After” is owed to its high concept foundations, overall the theatrical elements of the presentation worked against the collection. The minimalism of mylar and the poignancy of Annie Lennox’s “Why” were literally overshadowed by the novelty-sized MacBooks and floating mock iPhones and gigantic animatronic “puppeteers”.
The Verdict: An impeccably designed collection of wearable must-haves, almost, but not quite ruined by misguided conceptual ambitions. Next time OGRIIII, let the clothes speak for themselves.